Remember how I said that experience arranging flowers was not necessary for doing your wedding flowers? Well, I still think that. However, when it comes to sewing a wedding dress, I think experience is a very very good thing. If you’ve never sewn a dress before, go out and sew a few. Figure out what you are doing, and then decide if you want to take on your wedding dress. It’s not an impossible project, not at all, but it’s complicated, and takes skill.
My sister, my mother and I (and yes, David too) tackled Project Wedding Dress over Christmas break. It was more complicated and more time consuming than we expected (of course). It lead to Project Runway like, down to the wire, midnight sew-offs. And, in the end, it was far more rewarding than I’d ever imagined. The dress isn’t quite done yet, and I reserve the right to complain about it later (remember that!) Sadly, you are not going to see the finished project till August, I’m afraid, just hints and whispers. But! I’ve had requests to walk you through the process, so here we go!
Step 1: Pick Your Pattern
My pattern is a vintage Vogue pattern. Pretty, no? Squee!
The key to picking a pattern is to pick something where you like the basic construction – this dress has princess seams, no true waist, and pleating. Those are elements of the pattern would be next to impossible to change.
Step 2 – Pick Your Fabric
Once you have your pattern, you’ll have a pretty good idea of what kind of fabric you need. I’ve already written about my fabric search, but I was looking for a mid-weight silk – and I found the worlds most beautiful blush-toned off-white silk. Swoon.
Step 3 – Decide On Simple Modifications
This is the time to decide what small tweaks you want to make to the pattern. On my pattern, we decided to take off the sleeves, adjust the neckline a bit, and remove the yoke around the neck. These small changes made the dress feel like it was mine, but didn’t change the fundamental construction of the dress.
Step 4 – Muslin Mock Up
While this step is truly a monumental pain, I would not, under any circumstances, suggest skipping this step. It’s where all the really hard work is done. At this point, you take your measurements, get the pattern out, cut and mark the fabric, make the small modifications you are planning (no sleeves for us!), and sew up the dress. What you now have is a weird muslin dress. It’s going to be HUGE on you (I’m a street size 4, according to Vogue I was a size 12, we sewed a size 10, and it was still pretty darn big at this point). It’s also, frankly, not going to be very flattering at this point (see below) but don’t freak out. It will be.
Step 5 – Alterations, Alterations, Alterations
This step takes an incredible about of skill. And unless you are a four-armed double-jointed sewing genius, you can’t do it for yourself. Put on your muslin mock up. Stand in front of the mirror. Try not to wiggle (ha!). Get a sister, or another wise seamstress, to get out her pins and pin that dress like mad, until it fits like it is supposed to. Now is the time to discuss the neckline (is it working? Should you open it up more? Do you want to change the shape a bit?) and the length. Discuss if the dress is comfortable and how you feel in it. discuss all the little things.
Next up. The dress comes off (carefully, it’s full of pins). The head seamstress takes out a needle and thread and bastes in all the alterations she’s made (another option: the seamstress can actually do the basting alterations while you are in the dress). After this, try it on one last time, to make sure it fits.
Step 6 – Altering The Paper Pattern
The muslin dress is carefully cut apart. The head seamstress laid it back out on the original pattern and carefully transfers all the alterations that have been made on to the paper (This step is half skill and half voodoo magic, if you ask me).
Step 7 – Cut And Mark Your Fabric
At this point in our process, we were running tremendously behind. My pattern looks simple, but BOY is it not. The alterations had eaten up two full days, and we were due back in San Francisco. So, David and I stayed up until midnight, cracking Project Runway jokes, and ever so carefully cutting and marking yards and yards of silk. Cutting your fabric is an exercise in precision. After the magic that has gone into altering the pattern, you want to cut extremely precisely, and make sure the fabric is laid exactly the right way on the grain of the fabric. After it is all cut, you’ll use thread to mark all the indicated points in the fabric.
Step 8 – Baste The Dress Together
Those who are weak of heart, do not even read this step! Because at this point, I swear to god, you will hand sew the entire dress together in medium-sized basting stitches (that’s me doing just that in the picture). It sounds crazy, and it sort of is, but I have to say, I enjoyed this part the most. My sister and I sat there, and in a true old world fashion, hand sewed my entire wedding dress. When it was done, I tried it on to make sure it fit, and we made final adjustments. B
ecause you have just basted the dress, if anything is still not working, you can pull the stitches out and fix it.
Step 9 – Sew That D*mn Dress Together
This is it. The sewing machine comes out, and you finally sew the dress together once and for all. If you are making a liner for your dress, you will cut and sew that now. We’re in the midst of this step and the next one at the moment.
Step 10 – Finishing
Still to go: My sister is building crinolines for the dress out of tulle, and will attach them to the liner. Then she will mail the dress back to me, and I’ll attach some lace trim, and some buttons on the back. I might embroider our names and the date on the inside, because if this dress isn’t a heirloom, I don’t know what is. A heirloom or a g-d-effing-heirloom, depending on the day.
And that, ladies and gentleman, is how you make a wedding dress. It takes lots of time and love and patience, but at the end of the process, you are so attached to the dress you have. It’s not something you saved up for, its not a dress that you tried on and fell in love with. Nope, its a dress that you dreamed up in your heart and head, bled over, cursed over, slaved over, and midwifed into being. And I’m not sure it gets any better than that.
Oh Meg, how utterly wonderful. I’m not sure my fragile nerves would stand up to such a thing but I can’t think of a better way to come by a wedding dress. I feel quite emotional reading this actually!
January 8, 2009 5:41 am
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WOW! What a beautiful experience!
January 8, 2009 6:04 am
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Holy smokes! I am blown away! That is so awesome! And what a wonderful heirloom!
As stressful as it was at the time, I bet you have fabulous memories of the ‘Carry On’ and ‘Make it work’ comments that probably kept you from going crazy while sewing the dress!
I can’t wait to see the finished product! So, so impressed!!!
January 8, 2009 6:14 am
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and i love that it was a community experience – you got to spend quality old-fashioned time with loved ones laughing and cringing, smiling and possibly crying a few tears… something you'll remember forever and a story to tell you children & grandchildren – absolutely, wonderfully beautiful
January 8, 2009 7:06 am
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How amazing! I can’t wait to see finished pictures! (that’s the same pattern I’m looking at for my dress too!)
January 8, 2009 7:22 am
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Wow! That sounds amazing!! Congratulations!
January 8, 2009 7:25 am
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Wow! I commend you for going this route, and I can’t wait to see the final result in August!!
January 8, 2009 7:31 am
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So. Wow. Just wow. I could not do that in a million years. And I am so very amazed by the process and the time that went into it. You will look so very lovely. Wow.
January 8, 2009 7:33 am
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how lovely! You’re crazy and amazing all at the same time.
I sew (I was a fashion design drop-out in college), but I don’t know if I’m brave enought o make my own wedding dress.
Plus, there’s that whole part about needing help… nobody I know is much of a seamstress. sad.
But it looks like your dress will be amazing and I can’t wait to see the finished project.
January 8, 2009 7:55 am
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I don’t think it *does* get any better than that!
I love the shape you’ve gone for too, it looks just perfect for my mental image of you.
January 8, 2009 8:25 am
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OMG! That’s my pattern, too! Though I’m more inclined toward the 3/4 sleeve version, not being of the sleeveless persuasion (nor figure). And even though I know how to sew, I’m likely to have a dressmaker do the dirty work for me… just not brave enough!
January 8, 2009 8:41 am
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I’m SO impressed. I can’t even sew a hem into my pats.
January 8, 2009 8:44 am
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Wow. That’s an enormous undertaking but it’s amazing to see it all coming together, with so much love from your family. An heirloom indeed.
January 8, 2009 9:06 am
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I’ve been reading this blog for a couple months now, I really enjoy it, thanks for sharing your stories!
I’m also making my own wedding dress, though I keep refitting the muslin to avoid cutting into the silk since I’m a little nervous (I also purchased it from Britex, it really is a wonderful place-the remnants section especially)
Your photos and post have encouraged me (I envy you the help of your mother and sister-how neat to all work together! Mine are sadly only able to give telephone support from Michigan) I’m going to get cracking on my dress this weekend.
January 8, 2009 9:15 am
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Wow, that was one of your best posts ever! “Midwifed into being…” Loved it! Can’t wait to see the pictures
January 8, 2009 9:25 am
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tranny fierce.
January 8, 2009 9:42 am
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Your dress is going to be amazing. I love the shape! I think those style dresses would have to be the most flattering there is out there!
January 8, 2009 10:59 am
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Awesome! This reminds me so much of the process I went through with the seamstress for my dress slip.
January 8, 2009 11:29 am
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Kudos to you and the family for taking this on, I know it’s going to be just lovely. I love the pattern too, I used a similar Vintage Vogue pattern for my prom dress, but with a square neckline instead. Good luck and I can’t wait to see the result!
January 8, 2009 12:13 pm
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I have read this three times today intending to comment, and then had to go hide behind the curtains and sort of peer out at it without breathing in awe of all that is you. And now I am going to do a twirl (twirls). You get to have CRINOLINES. Crinolines, crinolines, tra la la.
January 8, 2009 1:49 pm
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I am also making my own dress, but then again I think I have a bit more experience seeing as I am a fashion designer… best of luck on yours…
Brooklynne
Psst I my word verification is hisatan
January 8, 2009 2:13 pm
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Awesome…I made my dress and I wouldn’t trade it for the world. I felt very Little House on the Prairie about making my dress, but would NOT trade the experience for the world. I did it almost all by myself (I was stubborn…I admit it) — had to have help with the hem. Keep going! You will LOVE IT. Especially the moment when it’s all done and you try it on for real…I was damn near giddy…
Best of luck with the final push!!
January 8, 2009 2:54 pm
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That dress is so amazing! It looks like it will be very flattering.
I’m sure I’ll have to make my own wedding dress, since I want sleeves and obviously no one wears sleeves anymore, even in the winter. I imagine working on it with my aunt and little old ladies at church. Little old ladies are my favorite.
January 8, 2009 3:04 pm
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I love this dress — so beautiful and classy. And lucky you, no evil bridal salon people! (not to offend bridal salon people…I just had a bad experience. I’m sure many of you are really very nice.)
January 8, 2009 4:59 pm
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Oh I just love this pattern! I can’t wait to see more! You’re going to be a beautiful bride!
January 8, 2009 10:09 pm
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That’s my wedding dress pattern too! I love it! Your “tutorial” is great, although a bit scary for me since I have started sewing yet…
alltidvi.blogspot.com
January 9, 2009 12:20 pm
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Quick tip – with the basting – you can just use the largest stitch on your sewing machine to sew it together – usually stitch size 4, it’s the machine’s version of a basting stitch and can easily be taken out but is much faster than hand sewing – although it sounds like that was your favorite part!
January 9, 2009 2:07 pm
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About the basting, it depends on the fabric. I could NOT do that, because I’m working in silk. you need to use a super thin hand needle for this part on silk, because holes do not come out…. so the basting stitches that may need to come out need to be far smaller holes than a machine can do.
And no matter what, you need to hand stitch all your pleats. No getting around it.
January 9, 2009 4:46 pm
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lovely dress!!! I want to sew the same for my best friends wedding and i want it strapless. Did you put doning inside?
January 11, 2009 12:11 pm
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Hi Lili-
No boning. This dress pattern can’t be modified to be strapless. That’s part of what I was talking about in step one, you need to choose a pattern where you’ll only need simple modifications, and a strapless bodice is a totally different bodice. Look for a dress with a strapless pattern, even one with a full length skirt. Length of the skirt is an easy modification. And be aware, boning is a bit of a pain, if you need to do it.
Meg
January 11, 2009 12:21 pm
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Lovely to see I’m not the only one doing my own dress :). Well, I say I, but actually it’s my aunt helped by by mom who’re doing it, I’m juste giving directions and waiting for next week when I’ll try the real silk one… ;)
January 12, 2009 1:20 pm
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Yay! I was so hoping you would go into detail when writing about this process. Being a seamstress myself I always think if this is something I’ll want to take on when the time comes. Thanks for giving me one more personal story for my research. Good luck!
January 19, 2009 5:22 pm
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I think making your gown is great. You go girl. The ability to sew if a valuable gift. I think you guys are doing an awesome job, don't change a thing and keep up the good work. God bless your union. Oh, I have made at least 2 wedding dresses, more alterations than I care to mention on gowns, tons of prom dresses, etc…Never my own. Go figure. I'm starting a mock designer gown and didnt think to use muslin, hmmm I usually use traditional liner. There you go, you have already helped me. Thanks
June 13, 2009 5:34 am
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There are many spandexes that look exactly like silk, satin, and lace…They are much more forgiving as far as fitting and drape beautifully. Nobody would know the difference! They are pretty inexpensive at $8 – 12 a yard. Spandexworld.com has an endless selection or you can go there if you are in Manhattan. My dress will be white satin spandex with lace over it with a lace veil that has rhinestones embellishments. Jo-anne fabrics also sells large rhinestone buttons that can be used creatively to hold fabrics in place if they are draped across the dress, etc.
June 16, 2009 7:04 am
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you are cracking me up! I found a dress on Etsy that I fell in love with – a 1940's vintage satin with inverted box pleats, hand beading, and appliqued flowers on the bodice… *sigh* it was made for someone about 5' 10" and 120 lbs… Which I am not. So, akin to your search out in the world for a wedding dress that didn't leave you cold, I sought out changes to make this dress *mine.* I love your humor, your dedication to keeping perspective on the wedding, and your gung-ho-i-ness. Stick in there. It'll be worth it. I've got less than 30 days to go and I just took the dress apart tonight for the third time. (every stitch has been re-done now)… Good luck!
August 6, 2009 11:48 pm
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I'm making my wedding dress as well! I've been sewing and "unsewing" it for about 2 months… or 3 times :) It's been great to read your comments and know I'm not alone when it comes too all the frustrating BUT fun and wonderful things that happen when you make your own dress. Can't wait to see the finished product!
August 24, 2009 1:04 pm
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Do you have pictures of the finished dress, or more in process pics, very excited to see the end result.
November 24, 2009 3:59 pm
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Wow! I appreciate what you did, because I understand! I'm making my own wedding gown too, and, such an ambitious girl at that, my gown is insanely more complicated as it is a ballgown with embroidery and beadings, etc. I still have about 10 months to go, so I'm taking my time, publishing some photos of the progress every now and then on my blog. It's crazy, but I'd be proud to wear it, hopefully looking gorgeous, but definitely unregrettably inexpensive. :-D
January 5, 2010 4:44 pm
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I had this pattern made for my wedding in August 2008! I sew but decided to let someone my mom know do the work since I had enough going on that summer.
February 25, 2010 8:17 am
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Wow. When I think about making my own dress (i.e. having my family make my dress ;)) or getting it made by someone, the two patterns I've thought of are the Vogue 2903 and 9280. I hear you though on the sizing being completely different than street sizing. I'd probably do the 3/4 length sleeves (November wedding) but the length of the shorter dress, with a colored crinoline. But to get the family on-board with the idea will require (is requiring) a bit of convincing. I know you ended up using a vintage dress you found in a store, but do you have any pictures of you with the finished product of 2903?
March 20, 2010 7:14 am
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I am lucky enough to have an enormously talented seamstress of an aunt who transformed a sketch I drew on an airplane into my own one-of-a-kind dress. Because we did it ourselves, I was able to afford real silk and lace (not cheap, but fit into my budget), and got a dress that was unforgettable. Now I’m ambitious to learn how to sew myself and hopefully do the same favor for a friend, family member, daughter, etc. some day down the road.
April 7, 2010 1:55 pm
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I am in the process of deciding on what my wedding dress will look like. I have now purchased 2 patterns and before I buy fabric I have to really think about what I want it to look like. What I will make will be easier than what you have beautifully shown. I will never (hopefully) have another chance to make my own wedding gown, and I thank you for sharing your details.
PS.. Where did you get the silk for your dress?
May 23, 2010 4:12 pm
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Beautiful and harrowing!
I have to say I hired someone to make my dress, and because I live in Asia, the process was, errm, a little different. First off, we had no common fluent language between us (I live in Taiwan, I do speak Chinese, but I would not call myself fully fluent). Secondly, over here, muslins are for “wimps”. Seriously. They just don’t do them. I inquired and was told by several dressmakers that nobody does muslins.
There’s also the fact that nobody – NOBODY – gets a wedding dress *made* here. They rent them. Always. So making a wedding dress of any sort is not something any dressmaker I could find has experienced with.
So my dress was made from scratch, no Muslin, no basting (she just pinned and chalked and pinned and chalked, especially stressful when you consider the fact that my dress is red and chalk shows!).
And yeah, it took like 400 fittings and at one point, my seamstress shouting “我真的受不了妳啦！“ (“I really can’t stand you!”) when I kept insisting on alterations that everyone agreed I needed.
It did turn out OK, but it took 8 months and more migraines and breakouts than I care to count.
June 14, 2010 4:02 am
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I am a MOB (mother of the bride) and I am making my daughter’s wedding dress. I am an accomplished seamstress, but there are some issues with the pattern my daughter has selected. She is slime and petite, wears a six 6, but has a double D bust. Yes, I know that sounds weird, but it’s true. The dress is a simple A-line, but the fabric she selected is very expensive lace, and I’m terrified of cutting into it! I have never worked with $60.00 a yard fabric before! Does anyone have any tips on adjusting an a-line pattern for a large bust? Remember that commercial patterns are cut for a B cup.
September 1, 2010 6:49 am
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You are a brave woman. It has been a long time since I undertook any dressmaking from scratch (curtains, alterations and cushions for three households have kept me from the dressmaking for some 20 years), However a wedding announcement and being volunteered to make a bepsoke wedding dress for my youngest daughter doing a Master\s degree in design has fired up the passion again.
I used to find the same problem with paper patterns – especially Vogue – the cheapest way around the problem is to buy a pattern in your daughter’s size and a second in a bigger size to match your daughters bust measuremet. Cut and tape the paper patterns, using the bigger size for the bust area. With fabric of that value it is very important to make up a calico or cheap lining fabric sample. I also used to find it really easy to use a bought cheap garment which fitted really well, then unpick it and use that as a template for either the top or skirt area – lay on top of the paper pattern and it lets you slit the paper pattern and infill and pin with brown or tissue paper. Failing all of the above invest on ebay or garage sale in a tailors dummy – adjust to your daughters size and tape the pattern to the dummy and infill again with brown or tissue paper.
Would love to know how you get on – even if the above is too late or of no use to you. Kind regards
September 14, 2010 1:01 pm
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[...] A practical wedding [...]
February 10, 2011 7:50 pm
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Hello, I am so proud of you for taking the opportunity to make your own wedding dress. I also enjoy reading your blog. I am glad that you made it known that making a wedding dress is not a simple little dress. I am a dressmaker and I often have individuals contact me and want a dress made in two weeks. I realize that they do not understand the concept of dressmaking. To get a really terrific, elegant and a dress that you would want to keep takes time and work. So if the dress cost $500 to make don’t think that it is too much sit back and try to think about the amount of time and effort that goes into creating a dress that you would love to walk down the isles in and pass on to your daughter or granddaughter later in life. I would love to see your finish dress. Looking at the Vogue pattern that you used I am sure that it is beautiful. I would not suggest to anyone to use a Vogue pattern if this is their first time at sewing. Vogue patterns can be difficult for even the experienced seamstress.
April 24, 2011 12:16 pm
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[...] http://apracticalwedding.com [...]
April 27, 2011 2:55 am
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Wow, we’re a new company which focusing on tailoring wedding dresses. It’s very useful for your article. And we’d like to learn more from your blog.
July 2, 2011 2:43 am
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I just wanted to say THANK YOU for posting this. Most everything that comes up when I search for making your own wedding dress are places that you tell them what you want and they make it for you; not the actual process of making your own dress! My mom made hers, and she explained the basic process to me, but it was still a little difficult to understand. This gives me much more of a starting point; and I am starting about 10 months before the date (definitely with practice dresses first, I haven’t sewn anything for myself in a loonnngg time!) so hopefully it will turn out well. Thank you again! Super helpful!
September 1, 2011 11:46 pm
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Thank you so much for this site! Iam making a dress for my best friend out of her first wedding dress and from her mothers wedding dress. I have been searching the internet consistantly and endlessly to find a step by step guide to help me in the process, and I have to say this is the first one that is easy to understand and laysall the steps out in a way I can understand! Thank you!
September 22, 2011 11:12 am
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